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Traditional Insecticide Treatments :Termites
The technology of non repellents such as Dominion 2L (the generic form of Premise-Imidacloprid 21.4%-more economical) is
an advancement over other termite insecticides that are only repellent
barriers.
With "repellant" termiticides, any of the smallest gap in the treated
soil can be detected and exploited by the termites to gain entry
in the building. They will find ways around it. This is a major short-coming
of the more traditional chemicals used for termite control.
The exception of this would be the use of non repellents such as
Premise or Dominion 2L(a generic form of Premise, and
Phantom. Because Premise, Phantom, and Dominion 2L are
made up of a nonrepellents ,
they are undetectable by termites. The termites can't see, smell,
taste or avoid Dominion 2L, Phantom or Premise .
Dominion 2L is quite a
bit more economical than Premise or Phantom .
TERMITE CHEMICALS-TERMITICIDES-AN OVERVIEW
For many years, the traditional method of controlling subterranean
termites was to apply a liquid pesticide, known as a termiticide, to the
soil. It has worked by applying a chemical barrier around and beneath
the structure in order to block all possible routes of termite entry.
Any termites attempting to penetrate through the treated soil were either
killed or repelled.
However, there are many obstacles to forming such a barrier.
Many possible termite entry points are hidden behind walls, floor coverings,
and other obstructions.
The exception to typical liquid termite
treatments problems or failures are non repellents on the market such as Premise, Dominion 2L and Phantom.
Even where access for treatment is possible, it is difficult
to uniformly wet soil and achieve thorough coverage. A typical "barrier"
treatment may involve hundreds of gallons of solution injected into the
ground alongside the foundation, beneath concrete slabs, and within foundation
walls. Considering that termites can tunnel through small untreated gaps
as narrow as pencil lead in the soil, it is understandable why the traditional/
barrier liquid treatments have failed to correct termite problems at times.
DRENCHING / DRILLING METHODS
Click on image to enlarge
Click
on image to enlarge
Most termiticides are not as stable in most soils as termiticides which
were manufactured prior to 1989. Chloronated hydrocarbon insecticdes (termiticdes)
like chlordane, aldrin, lindane, etc. were known to have tremendous stability
in soils and lasted a lot longer than the present termiticides.
The same qualities which made them good termiticides also made them
environmentally unsafe. Chlordane got the bad reputation from wide misuse
and was taken off the market in the USA.
There are several different insecticides used by pest control operators
for soil treatment for termites currently. All are safe and effective
when used according to label directions.
The insecticides remain effective
in the soil for approximately 5 to 10 years. Each product has slight
advantages and disadvantages.
Are far more "green" aproach to termite control would be using termite baiting systems.
A brief
Termite Control Chemical Table list some of the commonly used termiticides
and the manufacturers.
Effective termite treatments require a great volume of termiticide.
For example, a single-story house that is 1200 sq. ft. (40' x 30') can
require 112 gallons of diluted termiticide just to treat the soil along
the foundation walls (inside and out). The total gallons needed may exceed
150 gallons depending upon the construction of the house.
The exception to typical liquid termite
treatments problems or failures is a new product on the market called
Dominion 2L.
Termites "Bite" into Pocketbook by Barb Ogg, PhD, Extension Educator,
Lancaster County Extension Office and Dennis Ferraro, Extension Educator,
Douglas County Extension Office, talks about the amount of termiticide needed
to do the job correctly.
The physical and chemical nature of your soil surrounding your home
can impact the effectiveness of the chemicals stability with respect to
time. Soil clay content, pH, Organic matter content, particularly organic
carbon content will greatly influence the rate of break down of the termiticide
in soil.
You can consult your local land grant-extension entomologist to evaluate
your soil. Soil samples can be inexpensive, some may be free, allowing
you a more informed choice.
Baiting for termites, although generally more expensive, may
be a better alternative unless you use a product such as Dominion
2L. Termite Baiting systems are certainly safer for the environment.
For an excellent article: Fate
of Insecticides Used for Termite Control in Soil, by Shripat T. Kamble
Extension Specialist, Univ. of Nebraska,covers the different soil conditions
affecting current termiticides.
RETURN
TO TOP
Controlling Termites: Liquid Termiticides-Traditional/Barrier Treatments
1. Pre Treatment: for Pre Construction
Treatment Of Structures.
Homes and other buildings can be pretreated at the time of construction
to protect them against termite attack.
- All exposed wood can be treated easily with Timbor or the generic Borrada D,
it will last the life of the wood.
- Foundational walls and piers:
After the footings are poured and the foundational walls and /or piers
have been constructed, apply the termiticide such as Permethrin
36.8% , Cyper
TC or Dominion
2L
to a trench in the soil about 12 inches wide and 6 inches
deep adjacent to the foundation
Soil on both sides of the exposed foundational walls and soil surrounding
should be soaked down to the foundation footing at the labelled rate.
Apply at the diluted rate. Poured in with a watering can or bucket(5 gallon) is easier than using a sprayer, pouring 4 gallons per 10 linear feet. Pour the finished solution in the trench covering 10 linear feet. Once the trench is filled with 4 gallons of the finished mix, cover the trench back with the dirt that was removed. Repeat for the next 10 linear feet..
No need to dig the trench any deeper than the top of the footing.
Soil at the bottom of the trench can be loosened with a spade or iron
bar to allow further penetration.
For outside basement walls(where the footing is deep) most pest control
operators apply the chemical by injecting it along the foundation through
a hollow rod attached at the end of the hose in place of a soil nozzle.
This is called "rodding". The result is a continuous chemical barrier
from footing to surface.
This should be applied to both the inside and outside of the foundation
and also around piers, chimney bases,pipes,conduits,and other structures
in contact to the soil.
Use at the rate of 4 gallons per 10 linear feet. The diluted termiticide
should be mixed in with the soil, as it replaced.
- Slabs:
Types of slabs:
CLICK
ON PICTURE TO ENLARGE

For effective pretreatment termite proofing, much of the chemical barrier
needs to put under the concrete slabs. Obviously it is easier to put out
the barrier treatment BEFORE a slab has been poured. AFTER
it has been poured, it will need to be drilled and a
chemical injected under the slab to seal off termite entry points.
This is not a "do it yourself project".
Apply a diluted termiticide such as Permethrin
36.8% , Cyper
TC or Dominion
2L at the rate of 1 gallon per 10 sq. feet,
covering the square footage.
Along both sides of the foundational walls and interior foundational
walls and plumbing, apply this diluted rate at the rate of 4 gallons per
10 linear feet.
If using a HOSE
END SPRAYER ; hooked up to your sprayer, spray a gallon (of finished solution)per 10 square feet.(Pretreats)
2. POST CONSTRUCTION TREATMENT OF STRUCTURES:
- A thorough inspection is the first and most important step. Calling
in a professional pest control service may be necessary, as their experience
can locate the specific areas in your structure where termite attack
is likely to occur.
- Basement construction may require treatment which injects termiticides
into the soil through holes drilled in the basement floor at regular
intervals.
Crawl space treatment also involves trenching or rodding soil along
the foundation walls and around piers and pipes, then applying termiticides
to the soil.
Dig narrow trenches along both the inside and outside of foundation
walls and around piers and chimney bases,applied at the rate of 4 gal.
per 10 linear feet.
Also be sure to trench and treat around sewer pipes, conduits and all
other structural members in contact with the soil.
The trench should be as deep as the top of the footing.
Mix the termiticide with the soil as it is replaced.
The State regulations differ state to state on treatment and drilling
activity required.
Other Termite Problems:
In certain areas of the country you may encounter different types of
termites, such as Formosan, dampwood, drywood, etc. If your home is
infested with one of these termites, it may require different or more
extensive treatment procedures including wood treatment and fumigation.
CONSTRUCTION CONSIDERATIONS-TERMITES
Changing the soil along the foundation such as digging or removal of
treated soil can encourage termites to your home.
Disturbing the termite treatment may void any termite warranty that
you may have on your home.
An excellent article about renovations and home construction by Michael
Waldvogel, North Carolina Entomology Extension Specialist, can be found
at :
Termite tips-constructions
WOOD TREATMENTS
Treating the wood is an alternative to soil treatments.
However, it must be emphasized that these "spot" treatments on the wood
is not a complete termite treatment in that it will not stop the termites
from attacking the wood in other areas.
One treatment option uses the chemical disodium octaborate tetrahydrate
(DOT). Common ones are Boracare(or the generic Borrada LP)
and Timbor or the generic Borrada D
Both products are borax based and must be applied to untreated wood
. Important areas for treatments could be in the crawlspace and parts
of the framing in a house under construction.
Data provided by product manufacturers indicate that termites do not
extend their tubes over treated wood nor do they cause any structural
damage. |